Domestic Pigeon

Is a pigeon right for you?

The pigeon is not a single breed; it is a domesticated form of the rock dove with hundreds of breeds. Tumblers, rollers, homing (racing) pigeons and fancy show breeds are widely kept, and many pigeons also end up in homes after being rescued injured or as chicks from the street. This guide covers the basics of keeping pigeons at home or in a loft, whatever the breed.

Pigeons are calm, intelligent and can bond closely with their owners. But they should not be thought of as cage birds: they need to fly, they need a flock and a large space that is cleaned regularly, and they produce plenty of dust and droppings.

A well-kept domestic pigeon can live around 11 years on average, and much longer lives have been reported. Feral street pigeons, by contrast, typically live only a few years.

Before you adopt

Important: avian vets are not available everywhere. Find a vet or clinic that can treat pigeons in advance.

• Where to get one: Pigeon clubs, breeders rehoming birds and pigeon rescue groups. A pigeon with a leg ring is usually someone's domestic bird; if you find one, try to trace the owner through the ring number.
• Street pigeons: Helping an injured or fallen bird is kind, but catching a healthy feral pigeon and locking it in a loft does it no favours. Wild rock doves can be covered by wildlife laws in some countries (in Turkey, for example, the rock dove is on the official wildlife list), so check the rules with your wildlife authority before taking birds from the wild.
• Releasing a domestic breed: Fancy and tumbler breeds are vulnerable to predators, hunger and disease outdoors. If you can no longer keep a pigeon, find it a new home rather than releasing it.
• Quarantine: Keep a new bird apart from your existing flock for at least a few weeks and have it checked by a vet. Pigeon diseases spread very quickly through a loft.
• Neighbours and building rules: Check building rules and consider your neighbours before setting up a loft on a roof or balcony.

Character and social needs

Pigeons are community birds that prefer to live in flocks of 20 or more. Pairs usually stay together for life and are loyal to each other. Pigeons kept alone are reported to be more prone to depression.

If you keep a single pigeon, it will treat you as its flock mate and want to spend much of the day with you. If you can't provide that, a pair is a better choice.

Homing instinct: Homing pigeons can return from great distances, probably by sensing the Earth's magnetic field. Because of this strong bond to home, an adult pigeon brought to a new loft may try to fly back to its old home when released.

Breeding: Pigeons can raise 2-4 broods a year; incubation takes about 18 days and chicks stay in the nest for 4-6 weeks. If males and females are kept together, numbers grow fast; replacing eggs with dummy eggs is a common way to prevent breeding.

Cage and living space

Outdoor loft:

• A dry, well-ventilated but draught-free structure, sheltered from rain and cold winds.
• Pigeons are comfortable on flat perches, not round ones; give each bird its own shelf or perch box.
• Strong mesh and doors to keep out cats, martens, rats and birds of prey.
• Rooftop lofts can overheat badly in hot summers; provide shade, ventilation and plenty of water.
• Clean out droppings and moulted feathers regularly; a dirty, damp loft is a main source of respiratory disease and parasites.

Indoor pigeons:

• For a pair, a large double flight cage or an extra-large dog crate, with flat perches.
• Daily time out of the cage to fly and walk in a safe room.
• A high-quality air purifier: breathing pigeon dust can cause lung disease in people.
• Racing pigeons do not adapt well to indoor life.

Bathing: Pigeons love to bathe; offer a shallow, wide dish of water several times a week.

Feeding

• Staple: A good-quality pigeon grain-and-legume mix or pellets. Wheat or bread alone is inadequate.
• Meal feeding: In the morning, give an amount that will be finished by evening; put out fresh food the next morning. Start with a couple of tablespoons per bird and reduce if food is left over.
• Grit: Pigeons eating whole grains need grit in the gizzard to grind them; give it in moderation.
• Calcium: Crushed oyster shell or a calcium supplement, especially for breeding females and indoor birds.
• Vitamins and minerals: Mix a bird supplement into the food rather than the water, and use only one supplement at a time.
• Vegetables: Several times a week: carrot, broccoli, peas, dandelion greens, spinach (small amounts), bell pepper; in small pieces.
• Water: Always clean and plentiful; wash the dish daily.

Avoid: bread and other human foods (not nutritious), avocado, chocolate, salty and fatty foods.

Health and lifespan

Illness spreads fast among pigeons, especially in crowded lofts. Isolate any bird that sits fluffed up, stops eating, has watery droppings or loses its balance, and take it to a vet.

Problems that stand out in pigeons:

• Trichomoniasis ("canker"): The Trichomonas parasite causes yellowish-white, cheesy plaques in the mouth, throat and crop; difficulty swallowing, weight loss. Shared water dishes make spread easier.
• Pigeon paramyxovirus (PPMV-1): Watery, greenish droppings and heavy drinking; later, twisted neck, head turned upside down and loss of balance. Contagious; discuss vaccination with your vet.
• Coccidiosis and intestinal worms: Diarrhoea, weight loss, dull feathers. Regular droppings checks are recommended.
• Salmonellosis ("paratyphoid"): Diarrhoea, weight loss, swollen joints and wing tips, deaths in chicks. Carrier birds can remain in the loft.
• Pigeon pox: Spread by mosquitoes; crusty nodules around the eyes, on the beak and feet.
• Chlamydiosis and respiratory infections: Eye and nasal discharge, wheezy breathing. Chlamydia can also infect people.

Human health: "Bird fancier's lung" is lung inflammation caused by an immune reaction to proteins in pigeon dust and droppings. It starts with a dry cough and breathlessness and can cause permanent lung damage after years of exposure. Wear a dust mask when cleaning, keep the loft ventilated, and tell your doctor you keep pigeons if you develop a persistent cough or shortness of breath.

Taming and training

1. Settling into the loft. For the first weeks, keep a new pigeon in a section where it can see out; released too early, it may try to return to its old home.
2. Hand feeding. A calm voice and food at the same time every day are the fastest way to build trust.
3. Coming home. Before free flight, pair feeding with a particular sound (a whistle, shaking the food tin); the bird learns to return at that sound.
4. Handling. Hold the pigeon with both hands, wings gently folded against the body and your hand under the chest; never by a wing tip or the legs.

History and life in the wild

The domestic pigeon descends from the domesticated line of the rock dove (Columba livia); people are thought to have domesticated pigeons around 10,000 years ago. The feral pigeons of towns and cities are descendants of these domestic birds that went wild again.

For centuries pigeons were used as messengers, a food source and hobby animals, and their homing ability meant they carried messages in wartime. Pigeon keeping is a deep-rooted tradition in many cultures, including Turkey and the wider Middle East, where flying breeds such as tumblers and show breeds are passed down through generations. Contrary to popular belief, pigeons are clean birds that spend much of their time preening and bathing.