Cockatoo

Is a cockatoo right for you?

With their crests, cuddly manner, and viral dancing videos, cockatoos look utterly charming. In real life they are among the most demanding parrots to keep. Veterinary sources describe them as high-maintenance both physically and emotionally: they compare owning one to raising a small child, they need constant attention, and when neglected they turn to screaming and feather plucking.

Before you adopt

The species vary enormously: "Cockatoo" is not one bird but a name covering dozens of species in the family Cacatuidae. According to VCA sources, pet cockatoos range 31-70 cm in length and 300-900 g in weight depending on species; the smallest, the Goffin's cockatoo, weighs around 300 g, while one of the largest white species, the Moluccan (salmon-crested) cockatoo, can reach 850 g.

• Goffin's cockatoo (Tanimbar corella): The smallest and among the most high-strung and active; needs intensive training and enrichment.
• Umbrella (white) cockatoo: Nicknamed the "Velcro bird"; loves being held and is less high-strung than other cockatoos.
• Moluccan (salmon-crested) cockatoo: One of the largest white cockatoos; sweet but extremely loud, and known to feather pluck if it does not get its way. According to Guinness World Records, a shriek from this species measured at San Diego Zoo reached 135 decibels, making it the loudest bird species on record — comparable to a jet aircraft.

Do not confuse cockatoos with macaws: even the Moluccan cockatoo is noticeably smaller than a large macaw, which reaches 76-102 cm. But for noise and emotional needs, large cockatoos are every bit macaws' equal.

The lifespan issue: Sources generally put cockatoo lifespan at 25-45 years, with larger species reaching 70-80 years under good care. The Guinness-certified oldest parrot ever was a Major Mitchell's cockatoo (a type of pink cockatoo): at least 82 years old. Think now about who will care for the bird after you.

Avian vet: The number of vets treating birds is limited in many places. Feather plucking and cloacal prolapse, both common in cockatoos, need an experienced avian vet; find a clinic before getting the bird.

Legal status: Almost the entire parrot order (Psittaciformes) is listed on at least CITES Appendix II; unlike the budgerigar, cockatoos have no such exemption. Goffin's and the lesser sulphur-crested cockatoo (including the citron-crested subspecies) are on Appendix I; the umbrella cockatoo is on Appendix II. The Moluccan cockatoo is also on Appendix I and is considered endangered. In many countries, keeping, importing, or exporting an Appendix I or II species requires official CITES paperwork from the relevant wildlife authority; keeping one without documentation can lead to confiscation. Check current requirements with your national CITES authority (in Turkey, the provincial directorate of nature conservation and national parks).

Do not buy a smuggled bird: A bird without papers, without a closed leg band, or with an unexplained origin may have been taken from the wild. Moluccan and lesser sulphur-crested cockatoos are especially endangered because of illegal trapping. Buying such a bird fuels that trade.

Character and social needs

A cockatoo attaches to its owner almost like glue and loves to be touched. This is charming at first, then becomes a burden most households cannot sustain. Behaviour problems are especially common in hand-raised cockatoos that have become obsessively bonded to one person.

• Screaming: Its voice is loud, harsh, and piercing; boredom and attention-seeking make it worse. It may also scream when it hears the family but cannot see them.
• Chewing: The need to chew is very strong. Without a constant supply of wood and cardboard toys it turns to furniture, frames, and cables.
• Mood: It can be extremely affectionate and suddenly aggressive on the same day; males especially can bite hard during the breeding season.
• Daily need: Hours out of the cage, interaction, and mental stimulation are essential, or behaviour problems are all but guaranteed.

Cage and living space

• Size: A cage large enough for the bird to fully spread its wings and move between perches, sized to the species; for large species a play area and a safe room or aviary are ideal.
• Sturdiness: A cockatoo's beak can bend thin wire and it can learn to open cage latches. Choose a locked, sturdy, stainless-steel cage.
• Toys: Destructible wood, cardboard, and natural fibre, replaced constantly, or boredom turns into feather plucking.
• Position: In a family living area, against a wall, away from sun and draughts. Never the kitchen.
• Air quality: Cockatoos produce large amounts of talc-like feather dust; good ventilation and regular cleaning are needed, and this can be a serious problem for people with allergies.

Feeding

• Staple: A pellet formulated for birds should be the base diet.
• Vegetables: Fresh or frozen vegetables daily; dark leafy greens, carrot, broccoli, pepper.
• Fruit and seed: Occasionally, as treats. Too much oily seed and nuts leads to weight gain.
• Water: Fresh and clean every day.

Toxic items: avocado, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, salt, onion, garlic, fruit stones.

Household hazards: overheated non-stick coatings (PTFE fumes), aerosol sprays, scented candles, cigarette smoke.

Health and lifespan

Average lifespan generally falls between 25 and 45 years; 70 to 80 years is possible in larger species. At least one annual avian vet check-up is recommended.

• Feather plucking and self-mutilation (feather destructive behaviour): According to the MSD Veterinary Manual, stress, boredom, sexual frustration, and a poor seed-heavy diet can trigger it; some birds go past the feather into the skin. Stroking the back is discouraged, especially in cockatoos, because it stimulates hormones and sexual frustration. See a vet if you notice bare patches or bleeding; medical causes must be ruled out before building a behaviour plan.
• Cloacal prolapse: Seen especially in hand-raised adult male cockatoos that are excessively bonded to their owner. Back stroking, hand-feeding warm food, and close body contact can perpetuate straining. Pink-red tissue protruding from the vent is an emergency.
• Psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD, a circovirus): Cockatoos are among the most affected group. Curled, bloody, or shedding feathers and beak deformity appear; there is no cure. Have a new bird tested before bringing it home.
• Obesity: Especially the galah (rose-breasted cockatoo) is prone to it; leads to fatty liver, joint, and heart problems.
• Egg-laying problems: In females, long daylight hours and excessive bonding can trigger reproductive behaviour.

Do not wait if you notice fluffed sitting, loss of appetite, changes in droppings, laboured breathing, or bleeding.

Taming and training

1. Build a routine. Keep sleep, meal, and out-of-cage times consistent; unpredictability increases screaming.
2. Teach independent play. A bird that can occupy itself without constantly riding your shoulder avoids problems later.
3. Limit affection to the head and neck. Stroking the back and under the wings stimulates reproductive hormones.
4. Use positive reinforcement. Reward target training, stepping up, and quiet behaviour; do not rush to a screaming bird.
5. Socialise with several people. This reduces obsessive attachment to just one person.

History and life in the wild

Cockatoos (family Cacatuidae) are native to Australia, New Guinea, Indonesia, and the Philippines. In the wild they live in flocks and spend most of the day foraging for food, which is the source of their need for attention and occupation at home. Many species, notably the Goffin's and Moluccan cockatoos, are endangered due to habitat loss and illegal trapping for the cage-bird trade.