American Guinea Pig

Is an American guinea pig right for you?

The guinea pig is generally bought as an easy animal for a child. In fact it is among the most social, most communicative rodents and the one needing the most specific care. Looked after properly it lives 5 to 7 years and becomes a genuine member of the family.

The two most critical points: a guinea pig must not live alone, and it cannot produce its own vitamin C. These are the two most frequent fatal mistakes made with this species.

Before you adopt

A guinea pig should not be bought alone; always plan for at least two animals. Two females of the same sex, or a neutered male with a female, are suitable pairings.

In a healthy guinea pig the eyes are bright, the nose dry, the coat smooth, and the rear end clean. Do not take an animal from a group showing nasal discharge, wheezing, or a wet rear end.

Also look at rehoming groups; guinea pigs needing a new home because an owner gave up are common and are usually given in pairs.

Social needs: why it cannot live alone

The guinea pig is a species that lives in herds in South America. Living alone is not natural for it, and in some European countries (Switzerland, Austria) keeping a single guinea pig is contrary to animal welfare legislation.

What is seen in a lone guinea pig: loss of appetite, inactivity, falling silent, repetitive behaviours, and a shorter overall lifespan.

Correct pairings:

• Two females: usually the easiest to settle.
• A neutered male with one or several females: works very well.
• Two males: possible, but the space must be large, resources (houses, bowls) must be doubled, and introductions handled carefully.
• An unneutered male with a female: do not do this; it results in uncontrolled breeding and a high risk to the female in labour.

Introductions are made on neutral ground with plenty of hay and two hiding places. Teeth chattering and chasing are normal in the first days; if there is a bloody fight they must be separated.

Cage and living space

Almost all the guinea pig cages sold in pet shops are inadequate.

• Floor area: at least 0.7 m² for two guinea pigs (for example 120x60 cm); bigger is always better. One square metre for three, 1.2 m² for four.
• A single level with a wide floor. Guinea pigs do not climb; height does not help, floor area does.
• If there is a ramp its slope must be gentle; a guinea pig's spine is not suited to climbing.
• Bedding: paper-based bedding, fleece cage liners, or dust-free aspen shavings. Do not use pine or cedar shavings, which damage the respiratory tract.
• Hiding places: at least one per guinea pig, plus a spare. Houses with two exits reduce fighting.
• Position: quiet, out of direct sun, away from draughts, at a steady 17 to 24 °C. Guinea pigs do not tolerate heat; above 26 °C is dangerous.
• Free-roaming time: at least an hour a day in a safe, enclosed area with cables protected.

Spot-clean daily and change the bedding once or twice a week. Guinea pigs urinate a great deal; wet bedding produces sores on the soles of the feet (bumblefoot) and respiratory problems.

Feeding: the vitamin C rule

Like humans and primates, the guinea pig cannot produce its own vitamin C. This is the most critical nutritional fact about the species; a deficiency leads to scurvy, which is fatal if untreated.

Daily arrangement:

• Hay (80%, unlimited): timothy or meadow hay must be accessible 24 hours a day. It is the foundation of both digestion and dental health. Alfalfa hay is only for young animals and pregnant females; in adults it causes excess calcium and bladder stones.
• Pellets (one to two tablespoons a day): a guinea-pig-specific pellet with added vitamin C. Do not use mixed, colourful, seed and nut blends; the guinea pig picks out its favourites and ends up unbalanced.
• Fresh vegetables (a handful a day): sweet pepper (the richest in vitamin C), rocket, parsley, purslane, lettuce leaves, cucumber, coriander, carrot tops.
• Vitamin C supplement: roughly 10 to 50 mg a day. This can be met with fresh vegetables; vitamin C dripped into the water is not recommended (it degrades in light and changes the taste of the water, reducing drinking). A tablet or direct vegetables are preferable.
• Clean water: a drip bottle and/or a shallow bowl, changed daily.

Do not give: iceberg lettuce heart (no nutritional value, causes diarrhoea), potato, onion, garlic, avocado, chocolate, dairy products, human foods, seed and nut mixes.

Digestive warning: a guinea pig must eat constantly. Not eating for 12 to 24 hours is an emergency (GI stasis); gut movement stops and it quickly becomes fatal.

Health and lifespan

Average lifespan is 5 to 7 years.

Signs that mean a vet visit:

• Not eating, or a decrease in the number of droppings (emergency)
• Wheezing, nasal discharge, watery eyes
• Weight loss, inactivity, hiding
• Hair loss, itching, crusting
• Limping, redness or sores on the soles of the feet
• Blood in the urine, making noise while urinating
• Drooling, wetness around the mouth, difficulty eating

Common diseases:

• Scurvy (vitamin C deficiency): lethargy, limping, joint swelling, bleeding gums, poor coat quality. Entirely preventable.
• Respiratory infections: very common in this species and fast-moving. Wheezing, nasal discharge, loss of appetite. An emergency vet visit is needed.
• Dental problems: all a guinea pig's teeth grow throughout life. Insufficient hay causes the molars to form a bridge over the tongue or into the cheek; drooling and difficulty eating are the signs. Correcting the teeth requires anaesthesia.
• Bladder stones: common in this species, caused by excess calcium and low water intake. Blood in the urine and making noise while urinating are the signs.
• Bumblefoot (pododermatitis): sores on the soles caused by wet or hard flooring and excess weight.
• Ovarian cysts (in females): symmetrical hair loss on the flanks, abdominal swelling. Common.
• Mange mites: severe itching, crusting, and even seizures. Treatable.
• Heat stroke: above 26 °C is dangerous; a cool environment is essential in summer.

Handling and communication

A guinea pig does not bite but it does get frightened; a calm and predictable approach is needed.

1. Do not touch it for the first three to five days. Let it settle in.
2. Getting to know your voice. Talk calmly beside the cage.
3. Feeding by hand. Offer a piece of sweet pepper in your palm.
4. Lift with both hands. One hand under the chest, the other under the hind legs. Never lift with one hand or let it hang; the spine is delicate.
5. Hold it low and sitting down. A guinea pig can jump from your hands, and a fall causes spinal fractures.
6. Short sessions. Use a towel on your lap; guinea pigs urinate on laps.

Understanding the sounds:

• Wheek (a loud whistle): asking for food or excitement; often a reaction to the fridge.
• Purring (a low vibration): contentment; if high-pitched and trembling, unease.
• Rumbling: courtship behaviour in males, accompanied by a swaying walk.
• Teeth chattering: annoyance and warning; a sign that comes before a fight.
• Chutting: a contented exploring sound.
• Popcorning (jumping): joy, particularly in young animals.

Enrichment

1. A wide floor area. This is the most effective enrichment.
2. Tunnels and hiding places. Cardboard boxes, wooden tunnels, fabric houses.
3. Foraging. Hide vegetables in the hay rather than putting them in a bowl.
4. Gnawing material. Willow balls, apple branches, untreated wood.
5. A free-roaming area. At least an hour a day in a safe room.
6. A companion. The most important item; no toy replaces another guinea pig.

History and life in the wild

The guinea pig (Cavia porcellus) was domesticated in the Andes around 5000 BCE. In Peru, Bolivia, and Ecuador it was raised both as a food source and as part of religious ceremonies; it remains a traditional food in the region today.

The species' wild ancestor is a rodent that lives in herds and uses tunnel systems. Its social need comes from that way of life.

In the 16th century it was brought to Europe by Spanish and Dutch traders and became a popular pet among the aristocracy; Queen Elizabeth I is said to have kept one.

The English name "guinea pig" is misleading: the animal comes neither from Guinea nor is it a pig. The origin of the name is disputed, with explanations pointing to the sea route, the price (a guinea coin), or a resemblance to the sound it makes.

The American guinea pig is the standard type with a short, straight coat. Other types (Abyssinian, Peruvian, Teddy, Rex, Silkie) differ in coat structure; temperament and care needs are largely the same, with brushing required only in the long-haired varieties.