Peruvian Guinea Pig

Is a Peruvian guinea pig right for you?

The Peruvian is one of the most striking guinea pig types, with long, straight hair that covers the whole body and can reach the floor if left untrimmed. A forelock falling forward over the face and a coat that parts down the middle of the back are typical. Its temperament is calm and social like other guinea pigs; the difference is that it needs grooming every day. For that reason it is generally not recommended for first-time guinea pig owners.

The two most critical points: guinea pigs cannot make their own vitamin C, and the Peruvian's long coat needs daily care. Neglect the first and scurvy develops; neglect the second and you get mats, skin problems and flystrike.

Before you adopt

Always plan for at least two guinea pigs. Two females, or a neutered male with a female, are compatible pairings. The RSPCA encourages adopting from rescues rather than buying.

When assessing a long-haired guinea pig:

• Coat: free of mats and clean; hair around the rear stuck with urine and droppings is a sign of poor care.
• Skin: part the hair and look. Redness, crusts, dandruff and intense scratching may mean mites or fungus.
• Eyes: no watering or discharge under the forelock.
• General condition: bright eyes, dry nose, quiet breathing.

Pet Peruvians usually have their coat trimmed so it does not touch the floor, which is more comfortable for the animal too.

Social needs: why it cannot live alone

According to the RSPCA, guinea pigs get lonely and should not be kept alone; in the wild they live in family groups. Two long-haired guinea pigs sharing a cage may chew each other's hair; this is usually a sign of boredom or stress and can be reduced by providing more space, hay and hiding places. Do not keep an unneutered male with a female.

Cage and living space

Most guinea pig cages sold in pet shops are too small for two animals. Floor area matters more than height, but guinea pigs jump for joy (popcorning), so at least 30 cm of height is needed.

• Floor: solid flooring; no wire grid floors.
• Bedding: shavings and pellet litter tangle easily in long hair. Washable fabric cage liners topped with dust-free hay keep the coat cleaner. Avoid softwood shavings such as pine and cedar, and fluffy, fibrous materials.
• Hiding places: at least one per guinea pig; houses with two exits reduce squabbles.
• Cleaning: spot-clean daily and fully clean at least weekly. With a long-haired guinea pig, wet bedding transfers straight to the coat and skin.
• Position: well ventilated, dry, away from direct heat and draughts, and away from predators.

Temperature: the RSPCA gives 17-20 °C as the ideal room temperature; above 26 °C can cause heatstroke and below 15 °C can chill them. In hot summers an air-conditioned or cool room is needed. Keeping the coat shorter in summer helps them stay cool.

Feeding: the vitamin C rule

Guinea pigs cannot make vitamin C and can store it only for a short time.

• Hay (unlimited): timothy or low-calcium grass hay available at all times; the basis of gut and dental health. For long-haired guinea pigs, a hay rack reduces tangling in the coat.
• Vitamin C: according to VCA, guinea pigs need roughly 10-50 mg of vitamin C a day depending on age, health, stress and pregnancy.
• Pellets (small amount): high-fibre, timothy-based guinea pig pellets with added vitamin C. The vitamin C in pellets breaks down over time; give a fresh portion each day instead of topping up the bowl, and watch the best-before date.
• Fresh vegetables (daily): a variety of greens such as bell pepper, cabbage, leaf lettuce, rocket and coriander. Iceberg lettuce has little nutritional value and is not suitable.
• Fruit: vitamin C sources such as orange or kiwi occasionally and in small pieces; too much upsets gut bacteria.
• Water: available 24 hours a day, changed daily.

Do not give: oats, seeds, nuts, dry cereals or grains; they are too high in carbohydrates and fat. No human food.

Health and lifespan

According to the RSPCA, guinea pigs typically live 5-6 years, and some live longer.

Signs to see a vet: changes in eating or drinking, fewer or no droppings (emergency), unusual quietness, hiding, wheezing, nasal discharge, itching, hair loss.

• Flystrike: flies lay eggs on a dirty, damp rear end and it can be fatal. The RSPCA advises checking the rear twice a day in warm weather.
• Mats and skin inflammation: matted hair traps moisture and dirt against the skin, causing redness, sores and odour. It is easy to cut the skin when trying to snip mats close to it; if unsure, get help from a vet or experienced groomer.
• Scurvy (vitamin C deficiency): lethargy, poor appetite, swollen joints, limping, bleeding gums, poor coat quality. It is preventable.
• Dental problems: guinea pig teeth grow quickly; the RSPCA recommends checking teeth and nails weekly. Drooling, dropping food and weight loss are signs.
• Skin parasites and fungus: easily missed under long hair. Intense itching, crusts and hair loss need a vet examination.
• Eye irritation: the forelock can rub the eyes; keep the hair around the eyes short and see a vet if watering continues.
• Heatstroke: rapid breathing, weakness. Move to a cool, shaded place, wrap in a cool, damp towel and call your vet immediately.

Grooming and handling

1. Comb daily: with a stainless steel comb, gently, starting at the tips and working toward the roots. Wire brushes can irritate the skin; a soft bristle brush can be used as a finish.
2. Trim regularly: keep the coat off the floor, and cut the rear end and around the feet shorter.
3. Bathe only when needed: use a mild, coconut-based gentle shampoo; no conditioner or leave-in products. Hold the guinea pig on a folded towel and never put cotton buds in the ear canal. Do not use a hair dryer; let it dry in a warm, quiet, draught-free spot.
4. Nails: check weekly and trim as needed.
5. Hold with two hands: one under the chest, the other supporting the hind legs. Approach from the front and low down rather than grabbing from above; guinea pigs are prey animals.
6. Keep grooming sessions short, use a towel on your lap and reward with a piece of bell pepper.

Enrichment

1. Plenty of floor space: the most effective enrichment.
2. Tunnels and hiding places: fabric tunnels do not snag long hair.
3. Foraging: hide vegetables in the hay.
4. Daily free-roam time: in a safe, cable-free area.
5. A companion: no toy replaces another guinea pig.

History and life in the wild

The guinea pig (Cavia porcellus) comes from the grasslands of the Andes and was domesticated in the region thousands of years ago. Despite its name, the Peruvian is not a local type from Peru; it is a breed whose long coat was developed through selection in the show fancy. It was formerly called the "Angora" and is counted among the oldest recognised long-haired guinea pig breeds. Sources differ on the country where it was developed; it is reported to have become established as a show animal in Europe in the 19th century.

The long-hair gene is recessive: when crossed with a short-haired guinea pig, short hair dominates in the offspring. There is also a satin variety with silkier, glossier hair.