Netherland Dwarf Rabbit

Is a Netherland Dwarf rabbit right for you?

The Netherland Dwarf is one of the smallest rabbit breeds: the breed standard sets the maximum at about 1.1 kg (2.5 lb). With its round head, short nose and tiny ears it is known as "the rabbit that always looks like a baby". But a small body does not mean a small responsibility. First, a correction: rabbits are not rodents but lagomorphs. They have a second pair of small peg teeth behind the upper incisors, and their digestive system works differently from a rodent's. They are listed alongside rodents on this site only for convenience.

The most critical point: dental problems and gut stasis are common in this breed. The first line of prevention for both is the same: unlimited, good-quality hay.

Before you adopt

Many babies sold in pet shops as "dwarf" or "mini" rabbits are crossbreeds that can grow to 2-3 kg. If you want a genuine Netherland Dwarf, seeing the parents is the only reliable check. If the breed is not essential to you, adult rabbits waiting in shelters and rescues are often the better choice, because their personalities are already known.

A baby should be at least 8 weeks old and not weaned early. Check:

• Teeth: the front incisors should close like scissors, the upper ones just in front of the lower. If the lower teeth protrude or the tips meet end to end, this may be an inherited jaw problem; either walk away or accept lifelong dental care from day one.
• Nose and eyes: no discharge, sneezing or wet fur around the eyes. The short-nosed shape makes respiratory infections easier to catch in this breed.
• Rear end: clean and dry; stuck-on droppings signal a digestive problem.

Rabbits live as long as cats and dogs. Plan moves, holidays and care arrangements over a 10-year horizon, and find out whether there is a rabbit-savvy (exotics) vet near you before you adopt.

Social needs and neutering

Rabbits live in groups in the wild, and welfare organisations advise against keeping them alone. The most reliable pairing is a neutered male with a neutered female. Housing a rabbit with a guinea pig is not a good substitute: their diets differ and a rabbit can injure a guinea pig.

Neutering does more than prevent litters; it reduces urine marking and aggression and makes litter training easier. Uterine cancer is common in unspayed females, so discuss timing with your vet. Females can become pregnant at four months, so separate littermates early.

Living space

A hutch or cage should be a rabbit's bedroom at most, not its home. The Rabbit Welfare Association recommends a single connected area of at least 3 m x 2 m of floor and 1 m high for two rabbits, and this applies to small breeds too. In a flat, that means a rabbit-proofed room or a large pen.

• Cables: rabbits chew cables as they would roots. Use cable protectors or put them out of reach.
• Flooring: rabbits have no paw pads and slip on wood and tiles. Lay washable rugs, mats or non-slip flooring.
• Hiding place: a house or cardboard box with two entrances; essential for this timid breed.
• Litter tray: a large tray with paper pellet litter and hay right next to it, since rabbits pass droppings while eating. Do not use pine or cedar shavings or clumping cat litter.
• Plants: many houseplants can be harmful; remove any you are not sure about.

Temperature: hot summers are a serious risk for this breed. Around 18-20 °C is ideal; the risk rises quickly as temperatures climb well above that. Air conditioning, a cool ceramic tile or a frozen water bottle wrapped in a towel help. Never leave a rabbit on a sunny balcony or in a parked car.

Feeding: the hay rule

A rabbit's diet is mostly hay. Hay keeps the gut moving and wears down teeth that grow throughout life.

• Hay (unlimited, most of the diet): timothy or meadow grass hay, fresh every day. Roughly, aim for a pile about the size of the rabbit each day. Alfalfa hay is only for growing youngsters.
• Pellets (small amount): for adults about a quarter cup per 2.25 kg of body weight; for a 1 kg Netherland Dwarf that is 1-2 tablespoons. Avoid colourful, grain-heavy muesli mixes.
• Greens (a handful daily): leaf lettuce (not iceberg), rocket, dill, coriander, mint, bell pepper. Limit high-calcium greens such as parsley and kale. Introduce new foods gradually.
• Fruit and carrot: sugary treats; a thumb-sized piece a few times a week is enough.
• Water: a shallow, heavy bowl is preferred; refresh daily.

Do not give: bread, biscuits, crackers, cereals, nuts, chocolate, avocado, onion, potato or human food.

It is normal for a rabbit to eat the soft, shiny droppings (caecotrophs) it produces at night; they are part of its nutrition.

Health and lifespan

Average lifespan for this breed is reported as 10-12 years, which depends on good diet and regular vet checks.

Problems specific to or common in the breed:

• Dental malocclusion: common in dwarf breeds because of the short skull and can be inherited. Signs: dropping food, drooling, jaw swelling, eye discharge, stopping grooming, weight loss. Teeth need correcting under anaesthesia at the vet, and some rabbits need this every few weeks.
• GI stasis: the rabbit stops eating, droppings get smaller or stop, and it sits hunched and quiet. Not eating or passing droppings for 12 hours is an emergency; do not wait until morning.
• Upper respiratory infection: develops more easily in short-nosed rabbits. Sneezing, nasal discharge, matted fur on the inside of the front paws.
• Heatstroke: red, hot ears, rapid breathing, lethargy. Move the rabbit to a cool room, wet the ears with cool water and call your vet; do not wrap it in a wet towel.
• E. cuniculi parasite: can cause head tilt, loss of balance and hind-leg weakness. See a vet promptly if signs appear.
• Uterine cancer: common in unspayed females; blood in the urine and abdominal swelling are warning signs.

Vaccination: myxomatosis and rabbit haemorrhagic disease (RHDV1 and RHDV2) are usually fatal and can reach indoor rabbits via flies, fleas, clothing and shoes. Vaccination can start from about 5 weeks and is repeated yearly. Ask your vet which vaccines are available where you live.

Do not: give antibiotics your vet has not prescribed; some common antibiotics cause fatal gut disruption in rabbits.

Handling and communication

A Netherland Dwarf can be skittish at first and may scratch or bite when frightened. Once it trusts you, it can be very affectionate.

1. Get down to its level. A bond with a rabbit is built on the floor, not in your arms. Sit down and let it come to you.
2. Hand-feed greens. Reward it with a leaf from your palm.
3. If you must lift it, put one hand under the chest and support the hindquarters with the other. Never lift by the ears or scruff. Unsupported hind legs can kick hard enough to break the spine.
4. Keep it low and keep it brief.
5. Grooming: brush weekly and daily during a moult. Trim nails every 4-6 weeks. Do not bathe a rabbit in water.

Body language: jumping and twisting in the air (a binky) is joy. Thumping a hind foot signals alarm or annoyance. Flopping onto its side is deep relaxation. Soft tooth purring is contentment, while loud tooth grinding can be a sign of pain.

Enrichment

1. Digging box. A cardboard box filled with shredded paper or hay.
2. Tunnels and platforms. Rabbits like to survey their surroundings from a raised spot.
3. Foraging. Hide pellets and greens in the hay.
4. Chew items. Untreated willow, apple branches, cardboard tubes.
5. Daily exercise. Rabbits are most active at dawn and dusk; they should have access to a large area at those times.

History and origins

The Netherland Dwarf was developed in the Netherlands in the early 20th century by crossing small white Polish (Hermelin) rabbits with wild and coloured rabbits. A breed standard was set in 1940; the Second World War interrupted its development and only a few animals survived. The breed reached England in the late 1940s and North America in the 1960s, and was recognised by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) in 1969.

The dwarfing gene produces the dwarf type when one copy is carried. Mating two dwarf carriers can produce babies with two copies; these babies (called "peanuts") do not survive. This mainly concerns breeders, but it also explains why casual breeding is discouraged.

Like all domestic rabbits, the Netherland Dwarf descends from the European wild rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus). Its wild relatives live in colonies in extensive burrow systems, which is where the pet rabbit's need to dig, hide and have company comes from.